Where to Find the Best Baklava in Istanbul
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The question of where to find the best baklava in Istanbul is one that is debated, discussed and disputed at quite some length within our circle of friends.
For those who have never had the pleasure of trying it, Turkish baklava is a delicious Turkish pastry-based dessert. It is made using many wafer thin layers of delicate filo pastry prepared with butter and oil.
Balanced perfectly on the line between crisp and yielding, the pastry is filled with nuts and drizzled with honey syrup, often flavoured with rose or orange flower water.
When it’s good - sweet, flaky, rich and satisfying - baklava’s pistachio, rose water goodness is as evocative of place as it is bursting with taste.
Put bluntly, baklava is one of the must try foods in Turkey and when visiting Istanbul, sampling baklava just has to be done.
So naturally the question arises: where do I actually find the best baklava in Istanbul?
Go on, have some baklava!
Having lived in Istanbul for several years we have conducted extensive “field research” on this topic, basically tasting, testing, evaluating and ranking more baklava than is probably good for us.
Having also consulted with local experts (aka our Turkish friends) for some real insider tips, we are now ready to present our findings in the form of a list guaranteed to help you find the best baklava Istanbul has to offer.
This guide will not only provide information about baklava itself, its disputed history and various forms, but importantly, it will give you honest recommendations on the best places to enjoy these marvellous delicacies.
From well-known establishments (Hafiz Mustafa 1864, Karaköy Güllüoğlu) to hidden gems (Gaziburma Mustafa, Zaitoune); from historical settings (Karaköy Köşkeroğlu Şube) to places for vegans - yes even vegans (Babazade) - we’ve got you covered.
We like things that are covered, especially in syrup and rose water and pistachios and…mmm.
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Baklava History Unwrapped: Where is Baklava From, Really?
Depending upon who you are discussing it with, the hotly disputed history of baklava can be a bit of a touchy subject.
Asking where is baklava from or describing baklava pastry as a ‘Turkish pastry’ in some quarters will get you a slantwise look at best and a full on argument at worst.
(In a similar vein we would strongly advise against asking for ‘Greek Yogurt’ in a Turkish store or supermarket. People can get pretty defensively patriotic about their food.)
With several countries offering slightly different types of baklava, whilst also vehemently claiming to have originated the delicious pastry confection, it seems that baklava history can have almost as many layers as the dessert itself.
Is baklava Greek or Turkish? Armenian or even Egyptian?
Turns out, the baklava origin story is a little more complicated than that.
ARE YOU A FOODIE? Then check out our guide to the Best Istanbul Food Tours!
Whilst one theory claims that baklava evolved from the layered ‘placenta cakes’ enjoyed by the ancient Greeks, others point to the Turkish dessert gülaç as a possible precursor.
Still others insist that the parcels of flaky goodness had their beginnings with the Arabic/Persian dessert ‘Lauzinaj’ detailed in a 10th century cookbook known as the Kitab al-Tabikh. Another group claim it originated in the 8th Century with the Assyrians.
I am tempted to say that’s enough about the history, especially since the question “Where did baklava originate?” doesn’t seem to be one with a simple answer, but it turns out that when it comes to finding the best baklava in Istanbul, history still has a part to play.
Not only are many of the top ‘baklavaricis’ in Istanbul decades old and immensely proud of their heritage, but it is often the older and more established places that offer the best tasting Istanbul baklava.
Not to mention that an idyllic and historical setting can add immensely to the overall experience.
Types and Varieties of Baklava
There are so many different types of baklava
The first time you are faced with a baklava counter in Istanbul it can be quite daunting. There is such a huge range that for the uninitiated it can be difficult to know what to choose, what each type contains, or which of the many varieties is best suited to your appetite at the time.
Our first piece of advice would be to just ask. Turks pride themselves on their hospitality and as long as you are polite when asking, most places will be very patient and more than happy to answer your questions if you’re unsure.
One tip that always works is to start the interaction with a bit of rudimentary Turkish. Start with a greeting of “Merhaba” or “Kolay gelsin” and you’re almost guaranteed a warm reaction.
At the same time, having some idea of what you are looking at and looking for when you go hunting for baklava is useful.
So, here is a quick - and by no means comprehensive - crash course introduction to the types and varieties of this fantastic dessert that you are likely to come across in the places recommended below.
Pistachio baklava
Easily identified by its green filling, pistachio is probably the most favoured and most traditional Turkish baklava.
Often rectangular and looking a little like a savoury pastry the Hulk might enjoy, they are usually prepared with young or baby pistachios which are sweeter than the older, fully formed varieties and have a wonderfully subtle perfumed flavour enhanced by sherbet and honey.
You might see two different varieties of pistachio baklava on sale: regular and dry or ‘kuru’ baklava. Kuru baklava hasn’t had sherbet poured over it, but as it is made from a sweetened filo dough and baked in a thicker syrup, it’s actually sweeter than the regular version.
Pistachio baklava is always my first choice.
Walnut baklava
Walnut baklava is always tasty
This is the variety more commonly found outside of Turkey, simply because walnuts are more widespread and easier to grow than pistachios. They’re cheaper too!
However, this does not mean that the walnut variety is any less delectable and some people prefer this variety because of the smoother taste and slightly crunchier texture of the filling.
These ones are predictably easy to pick out because they have a brown filling rather than the green of the pistachio variety.
Havuç Dilim
Just. Look. At. That.
Havuç translates as ‘carrot,’ but before you start thinking this baklava might help you see in the dark, bear in mind that the name is in reference to its shape not its contents.
The beauty of the carrot shaped baklava (which basically comes to a point like a slice of cake or pizza slice) is that it is larger than other single portions. When it comes to baklava more is always more.
It can be filled with either pistachios or walnuts (and in some cases almonds) and is often served with a scoop of either ice cream or kaymak (Turkish clotted cream).
Sasha’s mum is a fan of this variety and happily polished off a full one despite it being so big it looked like she might have to climb the thing first.
Sasha’s mum devouring a huge slice of havuç dilim baklava
Midye Baklava
Midye baklava is so pretty
Another form of baklava named for its shape, the midye are formed to look like mussel shells but are (in my non-seafood eating opinion) far tastier than the mussels sold on the streets of Istanbul.
To be fair, if you are one of those weird pescatarian perverts who like eating seafood then ‘midye dolma’ - mussels stuffed with spiced rice and served with squeezed lemon - are a very popular street food in Turkey.
I am reliably informed they are delicious. Whatever blows your hair back I suppose.
Personally, I think I’ll stick with these sweet baklava beauties which are usually filled with not only filled with nuts (pistachio or walnut) but with cream. Much nicer and far less seafood-based.
If you are interested in the varieties of street food available in Istanbul and where to find it, check our Istanbul Street Food Guide.
Fıstık Dolma
Bright green fistik dolma baklava
If you think this one looks suspiciously like the vine leaf wraps you had on your mezze lunch then you’re not far wrong.
This variety - which is looks like slim, jade-green cylinders - is made with very thin layers of filo in pretty much the same way as vine leaf wraps.
The pastry is so wafter-thin and delicate that it doesn't really have the usual bite or flake of a pastry dessert.
However, filled to the brim with pistachios as it is, fıstık dolma remains a delicious option, though one that we often prefer to have as a compliment alongside other varieties.
Bülbül Yuvası
This baklava is so cute!
Probably the variety with the cutest name - it translates to something like ‘nightingale nest’ - this form of baklava looks almost like a small swirl or nest with the filling inside. An interesting textural contrast to the other types.
Dilber Dudağı
Does this baklava look sexy to you?
From the cutest to possibly the most suggestively named baklava - lady’s lips (or sweetheart lips) again take their name from their shape, looking as they do like a pair of lips.
Admittedly though, quite a trout-pouty, collagen-injected pair of lips, of the type you are likely to see if you spend any length of time in Istanbul’s trendy Nişantaşı or Bebek districts.
Much like some inhabitants of those districts, this species of baklava tends to be very rich, being prepared as it is with yogurt, milk, lemon and eggs. (Don’t panic vegans - there’s a whole section for you below.)
So, maybe don’t order too many of these! It’s definitely worth trying in small doses though.
Incidentally, it is something of a habit in Turkey to name foods and particularly desserts in slightly suggestive ways.
Three that come to mind straight away are the appetisingly named ‘Vesir’s fingers’, the always tasty ‘lady’s navel’ and my personal favourite ‘brothel dessert’. Nice.
Kadayıf
Looking less like a mini pastry and more like a square of shredded wheat, kadayıf is made with layered strips of fine dough and filled with walnuts or almonds.
It often has a slightly vanilla flavour cut through beautifully by the lemony sugar syrup poured on top.
This is another example of texture being of utmost importance in Turkish desserts, there’s just something about the way those crispy strands crunch and then dissolve that makes kadayıf a must try.
Sütlü Nuriye
A speciality of the southern city of Diyarbakir, this variety is quite a new arrival on the scene and is easily the most political baklava (if you don’t count the fact that kadayıf looks suspiciously like what Donald Trump generously refers to as his hair).
The modern version of sütlü nuriye has its origins during the 1980 coup de tat.
Apparently a military officer, unimpressed by the high price of baklava in the city at the time complained to the mayor of Istanbul who then set an upper price limit on baklava.
Unable to make a profit at the price, the bakers responded by inventing a new, cheaper to produce version.
Sütlü nuriye replaced pistachios with hazelnuts and added milk to the recipe so that each tray of the stuff would weigh more. The resulting invention is usually a light golden-brown colour and deliciously nutty in flavour.
A Note About Antep
Sasha living her best life in a baklava shop in Gaziantep during Covid
Oddly, when searching for a place to sample baklava in Istanbul it is worth keeping an eye out for the name of another Turkish city entirely. Trust us, there is a reason for this.
If we were to ask most of our Turkish friends to recommend a good place for dessert or to agree where the best baklava in Turkey (if not the best baklava in the world) comes from, they would immediately answer in one proud and happy voice with either Antep or Gaziantep.
Having visited Gaziantep to sample the baklava, Turkish desserts and other culinary masterpieces for ourselves - you can read our articles about the best food in Gaziantep and the things to do in this city of gastronomy - we would be tempted to agree.
Antepli people are proud of their baklava. And rightly so - it’s delicious!
Indeed, this southeastern city is considered the spiritual home of baklava and is widely thought to produce the best baklava in the country.
It’s for this reason that many of the best baklava establishments in Istanbul are at pains to stress their Gaziantep credentials, connections and heritage. It’s also why much of the best baklava in Istanbul tends to be Antep baklava of one form or another.
Decisions Decisions…
This is by no means an exhaustive list of all the varieties of baklava you will find, but it will give you at least a general understanding of what you're looking at and what to ask for.
Of course you could save time by just asking for a sample or mixed plate with all the varieties that will give you a few of each. Just a thought. A lovely, delicious thought.
But where to try these fabulous treats? Where exactly will you find the best baklava in Istanbul? Well, we’ve narrowed it down to a few top contenders.
On to the list!
Where to Find the Best Baklava in Istanbul
Hafiz Mustafa 1864
First stop for most tourists when it comes to sampling baklava in Istanbul is Hafiz Mustafa 1864 which, as the name suggests, is a brand with a history almost as long as its famous originator’s lengthy and super impressive moustache.
Seriously, he makes that guy on the Pringles tube look clean shaven.
Hafiz has outlets in various locations across the city but we’d recommend the famous one in a prime position on the edge of Taksim Square and directly opposite the start of Istiklal, Istanbul’s famous shopping street.
This glass-fronted store with its collection of street-side tables and cafe terrace atmosphere offers a great choice if you are in a hurry or want to sample baklava as part of a whirlwind Istanbul sites tour.
This location has excellent views of the Taksim mosque, famous for its art deco style and the Hagia Triada (Holy Trinity) Orthodox Church (both of which are worth visiting themselves).
Hafiz Mustafa’s Taksim branch is not only located close to the Taksim metro stop, but is also nestled between a number of other similar looking desert stores if you are unable to grab a seat at this one.
Offering a wide range of baklava varieties, Hafiz Mustafa also provides elegantly packaged baklava boxes and tins that you can take away to enjoy later.
Alternatively, you can buy these boxes as a tasty baklava souvenir treat for the folks back home (in my experience baklava is far tastier than a fridge magnet and kinder to the teeth).
The only drawback to Hafiz Mustafa 1864 is that its Taksim location is very much geared toward tourists, meaning that it gets very crowded in the early evenings.
The high demand can make it difficult to get a table and it can also be considered on the pricier side with less generous portions than some of its competitors. It’s also regarded derisively by some Turks as ‘tourist baklava’.
The quality of Hafiz Mustafa Baklava is good and this is a decent choice if you’re on a short visit or are busy sightseeing or shopping.
Having said that, in our opinion if you have the time we would still recommend going a little further afield for some of the best options.
Address: Gümüşsuyu, Sıraselviler Cd. No:7/B, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul
Hours: Open 24 hours
Köşkeroğlu Baklava
Not too far afield and not so far from the hubbub of Istiklal and Taksim is the neighbourhood of Karaköy: AKA baklava central for Istanbul.
It also happens to be home to two of our favourite places in Istanbul for baklava.
Köşkeroğlu Baklava Istanbul and Karaköy Güllüoğlu, both of which offer almost as much in the way of atmosphere as they do in top-quality dessert.
When it comes to Istanbul baklava, the closest thing we’ve found to the authentic Antep experience is Köşkeroğlu Baklava, which in some ways makes sense since this baklava company was founded in 1946 by Haci Mehmet Ali in [checks notes] ah yes, Gaziantep.
Their first Istanbul branch opened a full four decades later in 1986. Köşkeroğlu’s baklava is made fresh every day and uses only natural ingredients with no additives.
We first fell in love with the baklava at Köşkeroğlu during our initial visit to Istanbul back in 2008 (ah, we were so young).
Since then, our favourite branch in Karaköy has shifted to a fabulous new location: Karaköy Köşkeroğlu Şube, close to the brand new Istanbul Modern Art Gallery and against the beautiful backdrop of the historic Kılıç Ali Paşa mosque and hamam complex.
With extensive outside seating perfect for those long summer nights and complimentary blankets for slightly chillier evenings, Karaköy Köşkeroğlu Şube is the perfect place for some alfresco dessert dining.
If outside isn’t your thing, they have an extensive seating area inside and upstairs for the colder months which also offers great views.
We love this branch of Köşkeroğlu and visit it all the time - it’s our favourite place in Istanbul for baklava!
If you are visiting Köşkeroğlu as a pair or in a small group, we recommend buying a range of baklava varieties in small portions. A portion is just four pieces, so perfect for sharing! (If you’re on your own, what the hell, order a few portions anyway).
Enjoy with a tulip glass of red hot Turkish tea, the bitterness of which goes perfectly with the buttery sweetness of their famous Turkish baklava.
Karaköy Köşkeroğlu Şube is a great spot to enjoy this famous Turkish pastry dessert and yes I did say ‘Turkish pastry’. Please don’t tell the Greeks.
If you do happen to be more health conscious and worried about those baklava calories, you can always sample a little of each and then simply ask the friendly staff to pack up the leftovers.
Sasha’s parents didn’t ask for this to be packed away
They will then dutifully and beautifully pack them away for you to enjoy later like the half-measure-weight-watching-weakling that you are.
Just kidding, we love taking them away for an afternoon snack the next day.
By the way, if you are planning on taking some baklava away in a baklava gift box and are wondering “how long does baklava last?" The answer is not long if Sasha is around or up to two weeks.
It should be stored at room temperature to maintain its crispiness.
Some websites claim that baklava will be good for up to one year after purchase, but to be honest that’s one type of ‘historical baklava’ we would certainly not recommend sampling. Any baklava pastry with a half-life comparable to plutonium is probably best avoided.
Address: Hacımimi, Kemeraltı Cd. No:46, 34425 Beyoğlu/İstanbul
Hours: 7.00am - 12.00am
Karaköy Güllüoğlu
Another fantastic baklava restaurant also located in Karaköy and nestled in a gorgeously atmospheric, historical nook, is Karaköy Güllüoğlu Istanbul.
Whilst today it offers some of the most famous baklava Istanbul has to offer, this company also traces its roots and recipes back to, you guessed it, Gaziantep baklava.
In fact they claim that their store in Karaköy, which opened in 1949, was not only the very first place to bring baklava to Istanbul but also the first to open outside of Gaziantep itself.
What began as a business run by one man who traveled between Gaziantep and Damascus to learn about baklava production is now a thriving business with a factory site that produces over 2.5 tonnes of the good stuff every single day.
A portrait of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk made out of baklava at the old branch of Karaköy Güllüoğlu
Baklava couldn’t get any more Turkish
To give you an idea how much that is, it’s about half of what Sasha thinks she can manage in one sitting (I reckon I could easily do 3.5 tonnes if I skipped breakfast).
Whilst that might sound like a lot to tackle, you will be tempted to give it your best shot once you taste what they have to offer.
In our experience, Karaköy Güllüoğlu is the better choice for those with more specific dietary requirements, but who still want to sample some tasty baklava Turkish desserts.
Reason being, they provide diabetic baklava, gluten-free baklava and vegan dessert baklava options.
Address: Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa, Kemankeş Cd. No:67, 34425 Beyoğlu/İstanbul
Hours: Mon- Sat 7.30am - 1.00am, Sun: 8.00am - 1.00am
We shared this plate of baklava at Karaköy Güllüoğlu and even tried chocolate baklava
Zaitoun: Our Local Insider Tip
Pssst! You, yeah you, with the mad baklava craving in your eyes. Want a local insider tip on baklava? Well okay, but keep it on the down low.
Without wanting to contribute to the ‘where did baklava come from?’ flame war, one tip we do have for those willing to go a little further afield is to check out the Syrian baklava joint at Zaitoune in Fatih.
As an area packed with more ethnically diverse dining options (see our Best Areas to Stay in Istanbul guide for an overview of the area) Fatih is also home to a large Syrian population who, luckily for us and our taste buds, brought some of their best food with them.
Originally a well regarded brand in Syria, Zaitoune decided to make a go of it in Istanbul and have introduced some uniquely Syrian sweets for the budding baklava connoisseur to savour.
Be sure to try the tamreya (تمرية), a biscuity, date-based confection flavoured with cardamom and rose water. You won't find this particular baklava type in most other well known baklava establishments, but trust us when we say it's worth searching out.
Address: Akşemsettin, Battalgazi Sk., 34091 Fatih/İstanbul
Hours: Mon-Sun 10.00am - 10.00pm
Gaziburma Mustafa: Istanbul's Sweetest Hidden Gem
What’s that, you want another local insider tip? Now you’re just getting greedy. Oh go on then, but only because we like you.
Another slightly under-the-radar spot for baklava that is hugely popular amongst our Turkish friends but not particularly well known by tourists, is Gaziburma Mustafa in Pendik.
Again, this place is quite far out from the tourist hub (it’s on the Asian side of Istanbul) but fret not, it is easily accessible by Metro and again, well worth the journey.
Unlike the places in Karaköy that have huge outlets and beautifully ornate settings, Gaziburma is a far smaller and simpler family-run place that proudly boasts of having “One branch, one taste”.
Opened by father and sons after they moved to Istanbul from (do I even need to tell you where at this point?) Gaziantep in 1984, Gaziburma’s cosy, no frills seating is more like what you would find in a lokanta or a cafe.
Having said that, it is almost always crowded and there can sometimes be a queue. At the end of the day, if it’s good, people come back and what are they coming back for?
Baklava that will make you think you’ve gone to flavour heaven that’s what.
Apparently one of the secrets to their delicious recipe is the particular sherbet or sugar syrup they use. Whatever it is, it’s amazing.
Worth the journey. Worth the queue. Worth it.
Address: Batı, Dr. Orhan Maltepe Cd. 52/A, 34890 Pendik/İstanbul
Hours: Mon-Sat 8.00am - 9.00pm; Sunday closed
Vegan Baklava
If you’re a vegan wishing you could sample these traditional Turkish desserts then we have good news for you.
Only a few short years ago, ordering a so-called vegan baklava was something best avoided as the dairy-free alternatives you’d be served tended to resemble nuts crushed between two pieces of carpet tile and tasted about the same.
Luckily those days are gone and with a rising interest in veganism in Türkiye as a whole - and especially in Istanbul - more and more places are producing excellent vegan-friendly options.
Vegan baklava and cake in Eskişehir. Get in my belly!
For a guide to the best vegan food options in the city check out this post.
It’s true that vegan baklava can sometimes be found on the menus of specialist vegan restaurants and is often quite good (for example, Vegan Masa in Besiktas, which you can read about here, do very good vegan kadayıf and Vegan Istanbul sometimes also offers baklava as a dessert).
However, to really get the full experience you have to go to the places that are experts in serving the traditional baklava too.
Luckily, a few of them offer some great vegan options.
Babazade
As mentioned above, Karaköy Güllüoğlu has some fantastic vegan baklava.
We recommend getting there early if you want to try them as they tend to sell out quickly - last year we arrived too late to buy a box of vegan baklava for Sasha’s sister and had to come back the next day! This happens especially on the weekends (including on Friday).
Top of our list for a vegan in Istanbul looking for baklava however, is Babazade Baklava. This baklava restaurant has branches on both the European and Asian sides of Istanbul, both of which are a little way out from the main tourist areas, but well worth the trek.
Consider it pre-emptive calorie burning.
Their branch in 4.Levent is easily reached using the metro (it’s about 5 stops from Taksim travelling in the direction toward Hacıosman. (Just make sure you get off at 4.Levent and not Levent.)
Trust me, if you want to try some of the best baklava in Istanbul for vegans, it’s the place to go.
Babazade has been producing vegan baklava since 2018. The baklava itself is produced using eggless yufka flour and vegetable oil.
They are also very conscientious about ensuring that their vegan baklava is produced at a different manufacturing stage, using entirely separate tools and emphasise that nothing comes into contact with animal products.
The most exciting thing about their vegan baklava however isn’t the technicalities, its the variety and of course, the taste.
Babazade offers multiple types of vegan baklava including pistachio, walnut, almond and the larger carrot-shaped variety. They also serve vegan kadayıf which at Babazade it is produced using hazelnut oil.
Additionally, they produce a refined sugar free vegan baklava flavoured with date juice which is simply phenomenal and phenomenally vegan.
Address: Konaklar District, Akcam St. no:13/b, 34330 Besiktas/Istanbul
Hours: Mon-Sat 9.00am - 11.00pm; Sunday 10.00pm - 11.00pm
Conclusion
And there you have it.
Our picks for where to find the best baklava in Istanbul. Whether you’re looking for a quick stop-in whilst you’re shoppin’, a vegan Turkish delight, a local hidden gem, or you just fancy a relaxed evening soaking up the atmosphere with something beautifully soaked in syrup.
There’s something here for everyone.
Happy eating and if anyone in Istanbul does happen to ask, baklava is definitely Turkish.
Before you go, make sure to check out some of our other Istanbul guides and guides to the rest of Turkey/Türkiye:
🗓️ The Best 1 Day in Istanbul Itinerary
🍲 The Best Istanbul Food Tours
🏠 Best Areas to Stay in Istanbul: Coolest Neighbourhoods & Top Hotels
🌟 22 Best Hotels in Istanbul With a View
🗓 The Ultimate Turkey Itinerary 10 Days
🇹🇷 The Best Places to Visit in Turkey
🛫 How to Get from Istanbul Airport to the City Centre
🌷 Visit the Istanbul Tulip Festival
🎪 18 Best Festivals in Istanbul
🚂 Sirkeci Station: Discover Istanbul's Orient Express Station
✈️ How to Get From SAW Airport to Istanbul City Center
🥦 Vegan Istanbul: The Best Under-the-Radar Restaurants
🏔 Cappadocia in Winter: 7 Reasons to Visit + 16 Amazing Things to Do
🎄 Christmas in Istanbul: All You Need to Know for a Magical Stay
⛄ 9 Awesome Reasons to Spend Winter in Istanbul
✅ 12 Things You Need To Do in Istanbul
🔎 Explore Balat Istanbul: An Insider's Guide to One of Istanbul's Most Unique Neighbourhoods
🍳 Best Breakfast in Istanbul- 16 Incredible Places to Try
🥑 Where to Find the Best Vegan Turkish Breakfast in Istanbul
🖼️ 14 Top Things To Do in Gaziantep
🍔 Off the Eaten Track: The Best Street Food in Istanbul
Find more travel tips and useful information on Turkey here.
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