Where to Find the Best Turkish Rice Pudding in Istanbul (& Other Classic Turkish Puddings Too!)
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Turkish pudding comes in many forms. From sütlaç to güllaç from aşure to keşkül, there are a a number of varieties, meaning that for someone sampling them for the first time, it can be somewhat difficult to know where to start.
Perhaps you have heard of Turkish rice pudding before or been tempted by bowls of famous Turkish desserts in restaurant windows, studded and bejewelled with layers of nuts and colourful dried fruits?
Maybe you’ve heard whispers of a pudding made from…chicken? Perhaps this is your first time hearing that Turkish pudding was even a thing.
Whatever the case, we’ve got you covered!
Doing the ‘“research” for this article.
In this article we’ll guide you through the different varieties of Turkish pudding, helping you to sort your sütlaç from your güllaç and your aşure from your tavukgöğsü.
We’ll also share our local tips on the best places to visit in Istanbul if you want to get stuck into some pud.
So whether you're a pudding pro or an absolute beginner, we’ve got something for you and that something is going to be delicious.
Types and Varieties of Turkish Pudding
Whilst Sasha might tell you that as a ‘proper Northerner’ I refer to all desserts as pudding - i.e. “Ey up cockers let’s ‘ave some puddin’ before we nip back downt’ mine” (said in an Aimee Lou Wood accent) - in Turkey ‘pudding’ refers to a very specific subset of delicious and satisfying desserts.
Whilst they all fall broadly under the term ‘pudding’ they can also be quite strikingly different from one another in terms of taste, texture and as we shall see, special ingredients.
Muhallebi
This is the general Turkish word for pudding.
Many places selling Turkish rice puddings and other varieties in Istanbul will describe themselves as ‘muhallebicisi’.
This literally means ‘Pudding Maker’, which I have to say is one of the greatest titles or job descriptions I’ve ever heard. From now on, this will be my standard answer when people ask what I want to be if I ever choose to grow up.
According to tradition, muhallebi is named after an Arabian general Al-Muhalleb ibn Abi Sufra.
Having been presented with the dish by a Persian chef from the Sasanid Empire some time in the seventh century, Al-Muhalleb liked it so much he decided to name it after himself. As you do.
Incidentally, from now on McVitie’s Chocolate Digestives are going to be referred to as ‘Vin Discs’. Just so you know.
Some of the earliest recipes for muhallebi come from the tenth century and cover three main varieties, one of which was a rice-less milk pudding, another was made with chicken breast and yet another used mutton as a key ingredient.
To help you get a handle on what pudding you’d like to order, here’s a quick run down of the main types and varieties.
(By the way, if you think those meat based pudding recipes must surely be a thing of the past, I have some fun and surprisingly delicious news for you…)
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Tavukgöğsü: Chicken Breast Dessert
Top of some people’s lists when it comes to unusual foods in Turkey or ‘foods to try before you die’ is the somewhat infamous tavukgöğsü pudding, a dessert made from…wait for it…chicken breast.
Yes you read that right, chicken breast pudding.
In truth though, it is nowhere near as adventurous or ‘out there’ as it sounds and (stop the presses) actually tastes nothing like chicken.
Considered a delicacy when served to the Ottoman sultans, the chicken breast dessert is yet another Turkish dish with a disputed history.
Some claim that the dish passed into Turkish cuisine through the Romans in the Byzantine period, whilst others claim that it is of Arab origin. At this point we can’t be certain.
Tavukgöğsü with a generous sprinkling of cinnamon on top.
What is certain, however, is that despite any preconceptions people might have, tavukgöğsü is not just a tolerable dessert, it’s actually delicious!
Not only that, but excitingly, it is eaten with its own specially shaped spoon. I mean come on, a dessert that deserves its own spoon? Who can resist that?
The spoon in question is small and shaped a bit like a tiny shovel with a sharper edge that is used to nick the outer layers of the pudding then scoop the insides.
Any dessert deserving of its own cutlery has to be worth trying, right? Right?
The special tavukgöğsü spoon.
For those expecting (or perhaps dreading) the idea of a sweetly flavoured strip of chicken breast that looks like something Colonel Sanders would salivate over or a supermodel might use to stuff her bra, fear not.
This pudding is nothing like that.
In reality, the breast itself is ground and pounded so that the fibres break down to the point where the flavour of the meat is undetectable.
Getting ready to taste a pudding made out of chicken but that doesn’t actually taste of chicken.
In some ways it’s like a pancake or a sponge cake: both of these things contain eggs but don’t in any way actually taste eggy.
(By the way if your pancakes do taste like eggs -that’s an omelette and you are a cretin who should have your frying pan privileges taken away. No more pancakes for you.)
Anyway, back to the pudding.
Ooooh…stretchy!
The pounded chicken fibres are mixed with milk and cracked rice to form a pudding, which believe me, is far tastier than that description might initially make it sound.
With a creamy, stretchy consistency, the pudding is usually flavoured with spices (most commonly cinnamon or nutmeg) and is a deliciously filling dessert.
Digging in!
Whilst some might still be thinking that the inclusion of something more often found on a Sunday dinner in a dessert is off putting, we encourage you to sweep aside your preconceptions and give it a whirl.
After all, what is travel about if not trying out new experiences?
Could it be that the best Turkey dessert is actually a chicken dessert?
Give it a try and find out, we promise you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
🥘 Love food? Then why not dive deep into Turkey's rich food culture on an Istanbul Food Tour?
To find out more, you can also check out our article on The Best Food Tours in Istanbul where we go through the best tours that we have recommend (we've done quite a few ourselves!)
Kazandibi: Caramelised Chicken Breast Pudding
A version of tavukgöğsü that people in Istanbul go mad for is kazandibi.
Easily spotted and distinguished from its ‘undipped’ cousin due to the browned upper portion of the pudding, what sets this particular pudding apart, and arguably makes it even more delicious, is the cooking method.
The browning on top of the pudding is actually the bottom, where the pudding itself has caramelised and slightly burnt during preparation.
It was noted by some pudding makers (see: I told you it was an awesome job title) that people actually preferred a bit of this charring left on, as it enhanced the flavour.
Check out that caramelisation, baby!
I have even heard it said by some in the know that kazandibi is more popular and more delicious than the unburnt variety.
Nowadays the caramelized portion is often dusted with cinnamon and or nutmeg and we have to admit that the subtle smokiness of the browning does add a certain something.
Kazandibi goes perfectly with a glass of çay.
Aşure
Usually the most colourful entrant, covered as it is in a rainbow of fruit and nut toppings, aşure or Noah’s Pudding is also a dessert wrapped up in history.
In fact, it pops up in the traditions and folklore of several countries and religions. None of which seem to agree on when to eat the dish or indeed what exactly should be in it.
For Sunni Muslims the dish is eaten on ‘Ashora’ the tenth day in the month of Muharram which celebrates the parting of the Red Sea by Moses. For Sephardic Jews the dessert is eaten to mark Tu BiShvat, whilst in Armenia it is eaten as a Christmas or New Year pudding.
In Turkey, aşure is traditionally prepared to mark several important events, not just Muharram. For example, it was once commonly eaten and shared to celebrate a child's first tooth, as a way of giving thanks for the child making it through their first year.
Aşure is definitely one of the prettiest Turkish puddings out there.
It was also sometimes eaten to mark the passing of a relative or loved one. “It’s sad that Uncle Tony has gone but hey, can’t grieve forever. Pass the pudding.”
The name ‘Noah’s pudding’ comes from the traditional belief that when Noah’s ark came to rest on Mt Ararat (which is in modern day Turkey) the prophet and his family celebrated by making a pudding from the meagre stocks they had left.
By that point those stocks had been reduced to long lasting food stuffs like dried fruits, nuts and hardy grains. If you don’t count the massive double portions of meat he had at his disposal. Mmmm…endangered.
The dessert is also consumed during Hidraliz the ‘fire jumping’ festival during which brave men will attempt to jump over the flames and embers or a huge bonfire, a tradition you can read more about that event in our article on Istanbul festivals here
This might just be too pretty to eat…
The word aşure/ashore comes from a Persian word meaning to stir, though how many ingredients you need to stir in as a minimum depends upon who you listen to.
For some, it must be at least seven, for others at least ten (because it matches up with the tenth day being celebrated).
For still others it’s twelve, so as you can imagine when you order aşure there can be quite some variation in terms of what will actually arrive, as different communities, families and restaurants will have their own way of preparing it.
Generally speaking however, the dessert is made from boiled wheat as a base and comes with a generous mix of rice, beans, chickpeas, nuts, cloves, dried fruits and sugar to create the pudding.
Also generally speaking, no matter what the variety it will be sweet, filling and delicious.
Güllaç and Keşkül
Two rarer but equally fantastic puddings, if you can find them, are güllaç and keşkül.
The former is mostly served during Ramadan in Istanbul and is a favourite for people looking for a sugar fix after a long day of fasting.
Fasting or not, güllaç is a must try if you're lucky enough to be in Istanbul when it is on offer. Made up of layered pastry, ground walnuts, milk and flavoured with rosewater and pomegranate, güllaç is thought by some to have been the origin of baklava.
Güllaç - one of Sasha’s favourite puddings.
It was first mentioned in a book of Mongol and Turkic recipes dating all the way back to the 14th century Yuan Dynasty. Hilariously, this book was actually written by a court physician, instantly making him one of my favourite doctors of all time. (“Get a bit of that down you lad! It’ll do you good.”)
At Mog and Dog Travels we definitely endorse his prescription and recommend a serving of güllaç as soon as possible ‘for the good of your health’ if not for your waistline.
Keşkül meanwhile is a Turkish almond pudding. It is milk based and its distinct flavour partly comes from the addition of coconut powder into the mix at the end of the cooking process.
Often served with coconut shavings and pistachio on top, it has a creamy consistency, with a nutty but surprisingly refreshing vanilla and marzipan flavour.
A very generous portion of keşkül at Saray Muhallebiscisi.
Sütlaç
Last but certainly not least, there is sütlaç.
Perhaps the simplest option on this list and yet also easily one of the best. Sütlaç is the typical ‘Tukish rice pudding’, often served in a small clay dish after having been baked in the oven.
Sütlaç, which often has a slightly crispy golden brown baked layer on top, can be served hot (wonderfully comforting in winter) or refreshingly cold in summer, which is actually my preference.
Sütlaç is one of the most satisfying and tasty desserts EVER.
Now I’m sure there are some out there who would refer to firin sütlaç as simply a rice pudding but believe me dear reader it is far far more than that.
Creamy, surprisingly light and not in the least bit lumpy, a good sütlaç is flavoured with vanilla and at just the right temperature comes somewhere between a silky ice cream and an indulgent creme brule.
Just brilliant. So, that’s Turkish puddings, but where to find and consume them? Read on for our recommendations for the best places to try pudding in Istanbul.
Where to Find the Best Turkish Rice Pudding & Other Traditional Turkish Puddings in Istanbul
Pudding Shop Lale Restaurant
One location with a history almost as rich as its puddings is the Lale Pudding Shop, located within walking distance of the unmissable Haigia Sofia and Blue Mosque, two of the top tourist attractions Istanbul has to offer.
The Pudding Shop may now serve a variety of local dishes, but it's the puddings that gave the place its name that remain the true stars.
In our opinion the pudding shop remains a great venue in which to work up the courage to sample the famous chicken pudding. It’s really good here!
In the past, the Lale Pudding Shop was considered the starting point for the famous ‘Hippie Trail’.
In the days before the internet, Lonely Planet guides or even super useful blog sites like this one, early backpackers and travellers would communicate news about their planned trips, departure times and tips on travel as messages pinned to a large noticeboard in the pudding shop.
Many such messages can be still be seen in the restaurant today and though it is less of a central meeting point for travellers now, it is a place where you can sample some of the most famous Turkish puddings.
Do be aware that there is a cover charge at the restaurant, so if you are travelling on a budget you might want to factor that in.
Address: Alemdar, Divan Yolu Cd. No:6, 34400 Fatih/İstanbul
Hours: 7:30 am–10:30 pm
Saray Muhallebicisi
A less expensive but no less famous option is Saray Muhallebicisi.
Specialising in milk-based desserts, this Istanbul institution has been perfecting puddings since 1935 - proudly claiming to be the city's first. Their reputation rests not only on their long-standing history but also on the exceptional quality of milk they use in every recipe.
Great ingredients, great pudding, right? Right.
A very popular option, Saray now has 21 branches all over the city with over 1400 employees, but don’t let the fact that it’s now a chain put you off. Their success is built on a reputation and that reputation is well deserved.
The desserts at Saray Muhallebicisi are top notch.
The number and spread of Saray outlets means that it’s an easy option if you want to try Turkish pudding without venturing too far from the tourist hubs.
They even have a branch on Istiklal, Istanbul’s main shopping street, though we prefer the outlets in Kadıköy with views over the Marmara and the quieter Osmanbey branch 15 minutes from Taksim.
The stars of the show here are the tavukgöğsü and the keskul, but being a chain Saray has a very wide-ranging menu, meaning that you can sample these delights whilst still having delicious options for any less adventurous friends.
Address: Merkez, Halaskargazi Cd. 147A D:B, 34383 Şişli/İstanbul
Hours: 7:00 am–11:00 pm
Şekerci Cafer Erol
Another excellent venue for puddings and for any number of other desserts is in Kadıköy on the Asian side of Istanbul.
This specialist dessert place is famous for its elaborate decorations and is particularly worth visiting in winter and around Christmas time when the entire shop front is covered with lights and ornate decorations.
With an extensive menu that covers all kinds of sweet treats and a cosy interior upstairs, this popular spot is a must-see for any visitors with a sweet tooth.
We would especially recommend the sütlaç here, which is creamy and delicately flavoured with a hint of vanilla. It’s the perfect thing after a hard day’s eating and exploring.
Address: Osmanağa, Yasa Cd. No:19, 34714 Kadıköy/İstanbul
Hours: 8:00 am–11:00 pm
Sütlaç at Şekerci Cafer Erol.
Göreme Muhallebicisi
At the opposite end of the scale from the big chains serving pudding is Göreme Muhallebicisi in Kurtuluş, an institution that is famous with Istanbul locals.
This super cute and comparatively tiny place in the backstreets of Kurtuluş is around a ten minute walk from Osmanbey Metro station, which is itself only one stop from Taksim.
Göreme was opened in 1965 by the grandfather of the current owner, who for ten years prior to the opening, had sold milk door to door in what was then a predominantly Greek and Armenian neighbourhood.
(Vestiges of that mixed community heritage can still be found in the area if you know where to look!)
Göreme Muhallebicisi is THE place to go for tavukgöğsü.
The shop is easily spotted by its colourful windows and now has a separate storefront also selling traditional Turkish ice cream.
The tavukgöğsü and kazandibi here are hugely popular among locals, including us, but the restaurant also serves other pudding varieties and savoury foods, including some very good breakfast options, if you fancy something a little less chicken-based.
Definitely one worth seeking out and a real hidden gem for those willing to take the time to find it.
Address: Feriköy, Kurtuluş Cd. No:60 D:B, 34377 Şişli/İstanbul
Hours: 8:00 am–12:00 am
Tarihi Kısmet Muhallebicisi
When it comes to hidden gems that often go unnoticed by tourists, this long-established institution in the cobbled streets of the Kücük Pazar (Little Market) area stands out. Just a short walk from Haliç Metro station, it has been serving locals from the same spot since 1954.
Renowned for having some of the best pudding in the area, this place is the very definition of small, simple but delicious.
With its basic decor, patterned tile floors and small number of tables, Kismet isn’t the grandest or most spectacular looking of places, but if you want to try your pudding like a local, this is the place to go.
Top tip: Unlike many other places that serve the puddings already garnished with cinnamon, Kismet provides a shaker of the sweet stuff to your table allowing you to apply as much or as little to your pudding as you desire before you tuck in to some traditional creamy goodness.
You’ll be glad you did.
Address: Demirtaş, Küçük Pazar Cd. No:54, 34134 Fatih/İstanbul
Hours: Mon: 8:30 am-12:00 am, Tues & Weds: 8:30 am - 01:00 am, Thurs: 8:30 am-12:00 am
Fri: 8:30 am-12:30.am, Sat 8:30 am-1:30 am, Sun: 9:00 am - 12:00 am
So there you have it, a guide to the best Turkish puddings to be found in Istanbul and some quick tips on where to find them. Search them out, get your special spoons at the ready and get stuck in to some pud!
And if you try any of our recommendations, let us know your thoughts in the comments below!
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Before you go, make sure to check out some of our other Istanbul guides and guides to the rest of Turkey/Türkiye:
🍲 The Best Istanbul Food Tours
🏠 Best Areas to Stay in Istanbul: Coolest Neighbourhoods & Top Hotels
🌟 22 Best Hotels in Istanbul With a View
🗓 The Ultimate Turkey Itinerary 10 Days
🇹🇷 The Best Places to Visit in Turkey
🛫 How to Get from Istanbul Airport to the City Centre
🌷 Visit the Istanbul Tulip Festival
🎪 18 Best Festivals in Istanbul
✈️ How to Get From SAW Airport to Istanbul City Center
🥦 Vegan Istanbul: The Best Under-the-Radar Restaurants
🏔 Cappadocia in Winter: 7 Reasons to Visit + 16 Amazing Things to Do
🎄 Christmas in Istanbul: All You Need to Know for a Magical Stay
⛄ 9 Awesome Reasons to Spend Winter in Istanbul
✅ 12 Things You Need To Do in Istanbul
🔎 Explore Balat Istanbul: An Insider's Guide to One of Istanbul's Most Unique Neighbourhoods
🍳 Best Breakfast in Istanbul- 16 Incredible Places to Try
🥑 Where to Find the Best Vegan Turkish Breakfast in Istanbul
🖼️ 14 Top Things To Do in Gaziantep
🍔 Off the Eaten Track: The Best Street Food in Istanbul
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