Monuments, meditation and munchies: the top things to do in Vientiane, Laos
There’s more to Vientiane than at first meets the eye. Here’s a list of our favourite things to do in Laos’ tiny capital city.
Despite it being Laos' capital city, Vientiane is often billed as a dusty, sleepy town where not much happens and where it isn't worth staying long. And so, travellers often drop by for a day at most on their way to somewhere else.
However, the diminutive size of Vientiane means that this laidback city is much easier to explore than the sprawling megalopolises of Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur or Bangkok. Huge glassy skyscrapers are out: instead you are treated to beautiful French colonial architecture, centuries-old gilded and ornate Buddhist temples, night markets lining the Mekong River and a burgeoning independent cafe scene which means croissants, baguettes and crepes being offered on every corner.
All of this and more mean that Vientiane deserves more than a cursory visit - a few days in this city and you might find that you struggle to leave. So read on for the top things to do in Vientiane!
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Get Cultural: Temples, Museums and Architecture
The Cope Centre
Meditation
Shopping
Eating
Get Cultural: Temples, Museums and Architecture
Pha That Luang
When you are looking at what to do in Vientiane, visiting the city’s many temples is usually pretty high up on the list.
Standing at 44 metres tall, Pha That Luang is one of Laos' most impressive temples and is also considered to be the most important Buddhist monument in the whole country. According to Buddhist legend, the golden stupa, which has a pinnacle covered in real gold, is believed to enshrine part of the Buddha's breastbone. (Vincent said that we must have visited most parts of the Buddha's skeleton by now having visited temples containing relics in Sri Lanka, Thailand and Taiwan!)
The foundation of the temple dates back to the 3rd century but the current structure was built in 1566 after the then ruling King Setthathirath made Vientiane the capital of Laos. When Siamese invaders looted and destroyed the city in 1827, Pha That Luang was badly damaged and abandoned. The temple was restored to its original design by the French in the 1930s.
During November, huge crowds flock to the temple to celebrate the three day Boun That Luang festival, which is the most important Buddhist festival in Laos. In the days running up to the festival, the grounds of the temple are filled with stalls selling food, clothing and arts and crafts. There are also apparently lots of activities including carnival rides, musical performances and parades of people wearing traditional costumes and playing traditional music, which sounds like a lot of fun!
The how, where, whats and other stuff you need to know
How to get there: Pha That Luang is located 4 km northeast of central Vientiane. If you are visiting during the winter or you don't mind walking in the blazing heat, it can be a nice walk from the town centre. It is also easily reachable by tuk-tuk or bicycle (you can rent bikes from most guesthouses in the city).
Location: Pha That Luang temple
Opening hours: 08:00am-12:00pm, 13:00pm-16:00pm everyday
Entrance fee: 10,000kip for foreigners
Dress code: Modest dress required (i.e. no hot pants/bare shoulders)
Wat Si Saket
The temple with thousands of Buddhist statues and no, I am not kidding.
Famous for being the only temple in Vientiane that survived the Siamese occupation of 1828, Wat Si Saket features around 10,000 Buddha sculptures, in various styles and sizes. The ordination hall alone holds 7000 statues whilst more than 2000 silver and ceramic sculptures are displayed in the cloister wall running around the temple.
There's also a museum on the temple grounds and some fruit trees which provide much-needed shade if you are visiting during the hot season.
The how, where, whats and other stuff you need to know
Location: Wat Si Saket
Opening hours: 08:00am-12:00pm, 13:00pm-16:00pm everyday
Entrance fee: 10,000kip for foreigners
Dress Code: Modest dress required (i.e. no hot pants/bare shoulders)
Wat Si Muang
Known for giving people luck and fortune as well as being the subject of a fascinating legend, Wat Si Muang also happens to be one of the most beautiful and colourful temples in Vientiane. Built in 1563, the temple was apparently named after a young woman, Si Muang, who sacrificed herself while pregnant to appease angry spirits by jumping into the hole where the city pillar was being erected.
The temple receives a steady stream of visitors throughout the day who come to receive blessings from monks and to pray for good luck and fortune. Stalls clustered around the entrance sell flowers, candles and fruit for offerings.
The colourful candlelight 'wax castle' procession (phasat pheung) also starts from Wat Muang Si and marks the beginning of Boun That Luang Festival.
The how, where, whats and other stuff you need to know
Location: Wat Si Muang
Opening hours: 06:00am-19:00pm everyday
Dress Code: Modest dress required (i.e. no hot pants/bare shoulders)
Patuxai Victory Monument
Hang on a minute - is that the Arc De Triomphe? Well, no, but you could be forgiven for thinking that it was.
Also known as Victory Gate, this huge concrete archway was constructed on Lang Xang Avenue between 1957 and 1968 and was dedicated in memory of Laotian soldiers who died fighting in World War II and the independence war from France in 1949.
Whilst it resembles the Arc De Triomphe in Paris, Patuxai is definitely Laotian by design, decorated with images of Buddhist and Hindu deities, mythological figures such as the kinnari (half female, half bird like figure) and featuring five ornate towers built in traditional Laotian style. A spiral staircase in one section of the monument leads to an observation deck: for 5000 kip you can see a fantastic view of Vientiane and Patuxai Park.
The how, where, whats and other stuff you need to know
Location: Patuxai Victory Monument
Opening hours: 08:00am-16:00pm everyday
Entrance fee: 5000kip for foreigners to go up to the observation deck
Ho Phra Keo
Formerly a Buddhist temple, Ho Phra Keo (or Haw Phra Kaew) is now a museum of Buddhist relics. Originally built in 1565, it housed the Emerald Buddha for 200 years until the Siamese sacked Vientiane in 1779 and destroyed the temple. The Emerald Buddha is now displayed in Wat Phra Kaew (the Grand Palace) in Bangkok but the gilded throne that he once sat on remains at Ho Phra Keo. The temple was rebuilt in 1816 but was destroyed yet again by those pesky Siamese in 1828. The current building was rebuilt by the French between 1936 and 1942. Hopefully this one will last.
You can still see displays of ancient Buddhist sculptures in the main ordination hall as well as the ornately carved wooden doors of the original temple that have been restored. Outside on the terrace are many more 6th-9th century Buddhist sculptures whilst in the landscaped gardens outside is one 2000 year old jar from the Plain of Jars.
The how, where, whats and other stuff you need to know
Location: Ho Phra Keo
Opening hours: 08:00am-17:00pm everyday
Entrance fee: 10,000kip for foreigners
Other things to note: Photography is not allowed inside the main hall.
Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan)
Ever wanted to know what it is like to climb up inside a giant heaven-hell pumpkin? Feeling confused and want to know what on earth I am talking about? Well, fortunately for you, a visit to Vientiane's Buddha Park will help to answer both those questions.
Constructed in 1958 by Luang Pa Bunleua Sulilat, a priest-cum-shaman who integrated Hinduism and Buddhism to create his own unique and quite bizarre religious mythology, this open-air park features a variety of enormous sculptures of Buddhist and Hindu deities as well as various (and somewhat disturbing) scenes from both religions.
The biggest park attractions include a 40-metre reclining Buddha; a three-headed elephant; a gigantic demon eating a head while its snake-like legs are crossed behind it (now that’s a sentence I never thought I’d write); a huge demon with a clown-like face that seems to be carrying a prone woman (what Vincent nicknamed ‘Buddhist King Kong’) and a giant concrete pumpkin that has three storeys representing hell, earth and heaven and which you enter through the mouth of a three metre tall demon head. Phew, I think I need a break after all that! The top of the pumpkin gives you a great view over the whole park.
Bunleua Silat apparently fled from Laos to Thailand after the revolution in 1975, where he built another sculpture park literally across the Mekong River in Nong Khai, so if this doesn’t fulfil your bizarre sculpture needs, consider crossing the Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge and making a short trip to Thailand.
The how, where, whats and other stuff you need to know
Location: Buddha Park
How to get there: take bus number 14 from Talat Sao bus station (also known as the Central Bus Station). It costs 8000 kip one way and takes about 45 minutes. Buddha Park is the last stop on the route. To get the bus back, cross over to the bus stop on the opposite side of the road.
Opening hours: 08:00am-17:00pm everyday
Entrance fee: 15,000kip for foreigners
Discover the real cost of the Vietnam War in Laos
Explore the COPE visitor centre
Between 1964 and 1973, the US military dropped more than 2.5million tonnes of ordinance on Laos over the course of 580,000 bombing missions. This is equal to a planeload of bombs every 8 minutes, 24-hours a day, for 9 years. making Laos the most heavily bombed country per capita in history. In total, 270 million cluster bombs were dropped on Laos during the Vietnam War (210 million more bombs than were dropped on Iraq in 1991, 1998 and 2006 combined).
The impact of the Vietnam War in Laos (also known as the Laotian Civil War and the Secret War) is still keenly felt today, mainly through the injuries and deaths resulting from the remaining 80 million unexploded cluster bomblets (also known as UXOs) that litter the country, four decades after the end of war. Over 20,000 people have been killed or injured by UXO since the bombing ceased.
The Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise (COPE) provides artificial limbs and rehabilitation for Laotian people, many of them children, who have lost limbs and suffer injuries and permanent disabilities as a result of hidden UXOs.
In addition to showcasing COPE's work, the centre screens documentaries and has a permanent exhibition about the history of the Secret War (even down to the many types of weapons used) and how UXOs continue to affect people's lives in Laos today. The main legacy of the Secret War in Laos, aside from the injuries and deaths resulting from UXO is that the presence of UXO has basically entrenched people in poverty and stalled development in much of the country. A lot of it is uncomfortable reading and we were left feeling pretty disgusted about what us humans do to each other.
We were also shocked to discover that an over-familiarity with UXOs has lead to further deaths: families often source scrap metal from old bombs to make household items such as bowls and spoons. Children then get used to being around these items and don't recognise dangerous left over bombs when they see them.
You will also see things like jewellery made out of bomb casings being sold at markets in Vientiane and Luang Prabang but some organisations suggest that this is also problematic as it creates a demand for these items, leading more people to go out and put themselves in danger by trying to collect scrap metal.
The how, where, whats and other stuff you need to know
Location: The COPE Centre
Opening hours: 09:00am-18:00pm everyday
Entrance fee: Free but any donations are appreciated.
Find some inner peace
Meditation at Wat Sok Pha Luang
Sightseeing can be tiring even in a small city like Vientiane so I always welcome opportunities to take a break and just chill out. However if what you are looking for is a break from your own mind, why not try out the free meditation classes that are held every Saturday afternoon at Wat Sok Pha Luang?
The sessions take place at an open-air pavillion at the temple and begin with a general chat with the temple's novice monks (aka monks in training) who are looking to improve their spoken English. This lasts about an hour after which there is another hour of meditation which is broken up into three parts: 20 minutes seated meditation, 20 minutes walking meditation and then a further 20 minutes seated meditation. Don't worry if you are a total novice (ha ha, see what I did there?) when it comes to meditation - there will be someone to guide you through the process before the session starts.
At the end of the session there is an opportunity to ask questions and you get a free booklet on meditation so you can continue practicing afterwards.
The how, where, whats and other stuff you need to know
Location: Wat Sok Pha Luang
Opening hours: Every Saturday - 15:00pm-16:00pm general chat with novice monks, 16:00pm-17:00pm meditation
Dress Code: Modest dress required (i.e. no hot pants/bare shoulders)
Shopping
Bag some bargains at Vientiane Night Market
There isn’t really what you would call nightlife in Vientiane, but there are a few night markets dotted around the city that are great for shopaholics and foodies alike.
If you are simply looking to replace those trousers that have a massive tear in the crotch (hmmm...maybe that's only Vincent then) or just grabbing some gifts to take back home, it is worth checking out the Vientiane Night Market on the Mekong riverfront. The market opens daily at sunset until around 10:00pm and the stalls sell all sorts of things from souvenirs and Lao street food to clothes, handicrafts and electronics.
The how, where, whats and other stuff you need to know
Location: Vientiane Night Market
Opening hours: 18:00pm-22:00pm everyday
Find those noms and cafe hop 'til you drop
Cool cafes and restaurants
Laos is a cafe lovers paradise and I would argue that you haven’t really visited the city properly if you haven’t sat in at least one cafe, nibbling on a croissant, sipping some coffee and just watching the world go by. Our favourite cafes for sweet breakfast treats included Cafe Vanille (formerly Le Banneton) and La Terrasse (both on Rue Nokeokoummane) which have great breakfast menus and good quality pastries.
We also enjoyed breakfast at the very busy and rustic style Cabana Design Studio, which has a varied menu including shakshuka and French inspired desserts. All the pastries and breads are homemade although we thought everything was a little on the pricey side (from memory, avocado on toast was around £6!).
We love breakfast and make sure we explore great breakfast and brunch options in any country we travel to. Check out our ultimate guide to a Turkish breakfast and vegetarian and vegan breakfasts in Kuala Lumpur.
A little further afield is Kung’s Cafe, which has received rave reviews on TripAdvisor and for good reason: their mango sticky rice pancake is a delicious breakfast alternative and their curries and baguettes are tasty too.
The portions were a bit small for us, but the low prices mean that you can definitely afford to order more than one thing. And make sure to try their coconut coffee as it is divine!
Donut lovers will also be excited to know that there is even a cafe dedicated to this tasty treat: Sugamelt Cafe specialises in fresh homemade donuts in unique flavours including hibiscus and lime and pandan. And they are served warm! They also now serve savoury pies for lunch (including a completely vegan option made with vegan pastry) and a range of coffees and fresh juices.
If hydration is the name of the game for you, then head over to the renowned House of Fruit Shakes where the owner will personally rustle up delicious fruit shakes and smoothies for you.
The menu has a list as long as your arm of fruit smoothie and shake combinations: some of our favourites were lemon and mint, avocado and coconut, banana (simple but always a winner) and the punch which contained a whole medley of fruits, including passion fruit.
If nothing on the menu takes your fancy you can also design your own drink! House of Fruit Shakes also serves freshly made baguettes (available to eat in or takeaway) with different fillings (including plenty of veggie and vegan options) which makes for a very reasonably priced lunch.
Looking to get some work done? Our favourite cafe for catching up on work was Comma Coffee Reading Room which has fast WI-FI and a peaceful atmosphere that is perfect for getting your head down and being productive for a few hours.
If you don’t feel like working you can simply grab a coffee and get lost in one of the many books on the shelves. There’s also a number of different seating areas including some Japanese-inspired cushioned seating on the floor.
Temple hopping around Vientiane can definitely give you a ravenous appetite. Enter Noy's Fruit Heaven. This Vientiane institution is known for providing hearty, delicious and filling meals that are perfect for breakfast, lunch or dinner. We got completely obsessed with the red curry at Noy's and had it three times during our most recent stay in Vientiane.
The food is freshly made right in front of you and the portions are generous - this isn't a place where you will be coming out hungry. It is also great for vegetarians: tofu and vegetables can be substituted for meat in pretty much all the dishes.
Been travelling through Laos a while and had your fill of sticky rice and various curries? Well good news: like House of Fruit Shakes, Noy's also serves baguettes with various fresh fillings so you can get your sandwich fix. If you prefer your nutrition in liquid form, Noy's also has a huge range of smoothies and shakes on offer: and again you can even concoct your own.
In our experience, Noy’s was easily the best restaurant in Vientiane and one of the things we really missed about the city when we left.
For an extensive list of cafes from a Vientiane insider, check out this blog post. It made me want to stay longer in Vientiane so I could try them all!
...or eat to your heart's content at Ban Anou street food night market
Ban Anou street food night market, consists of basic pop up stalls spread out across Rue Phai Nam. There’s a lot of cheap and tasty food to choose from and a few things for those of you with a more ‘adventurous’ palate (I am talking about offal and insects here).
It is a meat lovers paradise, with sausages, chicken and pork kebabs galore, plus skewered boiled eggs, plenty of freshly grilled seafood and mini battered fish burgers!
There’s also freshly made and seasoned salads ready to takeaway in bags, plus noodle and rice dishes. Vegetarians and vegans might struggle here (there were a few dishes I thought might contain tofu, but a lovely lady on a motorbike kindly told me it was pork. I did find one vegetarian friendly rice dish though).
However, if you are on a tight budget or want to sample Laotian street food, this is a great place to get a wallet friendly and yummy dinner.
The how, where, whats and other stuff you need to know
Location: Ban Anou Street Nightmarket
Opening hours: 18:00am-22:00pm everyday
And there you have it! We ended up spending over a week in Vientiane and found it to be a great place to relax, plan our further travels in Laos and even get some work done. If you are looking for things to do in this friendly city, this list should keep you busy for several days, so choose your faves and have a blast in Vientiane!
What are your favourite things to do in Vientiane? Have you visited Laos? Let us know in the comments below!
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