The Best Things to Do in Mardin: Turkey’s City of Golden Stone
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From the moment we set foot in Mardin, we knew that we had stumbled upon somewhere truly special.
Golden yellow limestone buildings cascaded down the hillside towards sun baked Mesopotamian plains that stretched endlessly into the horizon.
On our first evening, we listened to the call to prayer echo around us as birds flocked over the soaring minarets and domes and the sky turned a gorgeous shade of Turkish rose streaked with clouds of crimson.
We had barely been in this ancient city one full day but we already knew: Mardin was magical.
We spent a week slowly exploring Mardin in Türkiye, getting purposely lost in its labyrinthine golden-hued streets that led us to ornately carved madrasas, tucked-away churches, ancient mosques, monasteries, lively bazaars and stone mansions whose design wouldn’t be out of place in Florence.
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Top Luxury: Mardius Tarihi Konak (⭐ 9.4)
Best Mid-Range: Carra Konağı (⭐ 9.4)
Best Budget: Dara Konagı (⭐ 7.5)
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🙋 Best Mardin Tours
Mardin Private Old Town City Tour (⭐ 5/5)
Deyrulzafaran Monastery, Dara Ancient Ruins and Old Town Tour in Mardin (⭐ 5/5)
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But Mardin is so much more than stunning views and glorious architecture. Its warm friendly folk are an intriguing mix of ethnicities, religions and languages. We sipped local wine with Assyrians, listened to a live band with Kurds and ate biscuits and drank çay with Syrians from Damascus.
A week in this captivating city wasn’t nearly enough. Mardin’s allure stayed with us long after we had left and we found ourselves yearning to return as though this wasn’t just a place we had visited, but a part of us we had left behind.
A piece of graffiti in Mardin sums it up better than we ever could: “Oh Mardin if I were a stone like you.”
And so we returned, again and again.
We’ve now visited Mardin three times and still can’t get enough of this wonderful city. This blog post covers all of our favourite places to visit and the best things to do in Mardin Turkey so that you too can experience the wonder of this enchanting Turkish city.
Perhaps like us, you’ll also struggle to leave.
🌍 Where is Mardin?
Located in southeastern Turkey, close to the Syrian border and 120 miles from the border with Iraq, Mardin is actually a city divided into two parts: Eski Mardin and Yenişehir.
Eski Mardin, also known as Mardin Old City, sits high on a hillside and is basically an open-air museum: featured on the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List, this is where you’ll find most of Mardin’s famous historical attractions, sweeping views of the Mesopotamian plains and spectacular Artuqid architecture.
Yenisehir literally means New City in Turkish and as you might have guessed from its name, is the modern (and far less picturesque) part of Mardin.
📜 A Crash Course on the History of Mardin
Summarising Mardin's history in under 200 words is no easy feat, but here we go!
Mardin’s complex history goes back thousands of years and like many other areas of modern-day Turkey, such as Gaziantep, it has been endlessly fought over, conquered and besieged.
The earliest known settlers were the Sumerians, followed by Akkadians, Babylonians, Elamites, and others, including the Assyrians.
By the 4th century, Mardin became an important centre for Syriac Christianity, with some of the earliest monasteries built here, including Nisbis (now Nusaybin) which is often referred to as the world’s first university.
After Roman and Byzantine rule, Mardin fell to the Umayyad Empire in the 6th century. By the late 11th century, it was taken by the Seljuk Turks but soon passed to the Artuqids of Mardin in the early 12th century. The Artuqids ruled for 300 years, leaving behind the stunning houses, mosques and madrasas that Mardin is so famous for today.
In 1517, the Ottomans, under Sultan Selim the Grim, annexed Mardin and it became part of their vast empire in the Middle East.
In 1923, following the establishment of the Republic of Turkey, Mardin became the capital of a province with the same name.
📍 Mardin Turkey Map
Click here for our Mardin map, which shows the main tourist attractions and places to see that we’ve mentioned in our article.
Some of the things we mention in this Mardin travel guide we kind of stumbled upon so not everything has a map pin/exact location. However we’ve tried our best to describe these finds so you can experience them too!
You can also stop by the Mardin tourism information office (we’ve included this on the map). They’ll give you a map of the area and a list of places that can be visited on foot and others that require public transport or your own car.
🕌 The Best Things to Do in Mardin Turkey
Our list of things to do in Mardin is all about immersing yourself in its unique culture, marveling at the stunning architecture, getting to know the local folk and appreciating the breathtaking views.
As slow travellers, we've spent at least a week in Mardin each time. We’d recommend spending three to four days in Mardin to explore the city in an enjoyable way.
Enjoy the Incredible Views From the Rooftop of Zinciriye Medresesi
The beautiful Zinciriye Madrasa in Old City Mardin, Turkey
Commissioned by Sultan Isa, the penultimate Artuqid ruler of Mardin, and completed in 1385, Zinciriye Medresesi Mardin (also known as Sultan ‘Isa Madrasa) is one of the most famous historical landmarks in Mardin province.
While most visitors come for the jaw dropping panoramic views from the madrasa’s rooftop, the mosque, mausoleum, and courtyards are well worth exploring.
The grand entrance portal is adorned with intricate geometric patterns and Kufic script. In particular, the striking teardrop-shaped medallion inscribed with, “I place my trust in God, may He be exalted’ caught our eye.
The tranquill lower courtyard features a fountain and a rectangular pool, which are surrounded by flowers in the spring.
The small cafe nearby offers a perfect spot for a çay or a cold juice - it was a welcome respite from the summer heat. We met the imam of the Zinciriye mosque here, who was actually preparing to move to Wales!
Climbing the staircases to the rooftop, you’ll pass an upper courtyard before reaching the viewpoint. Here, beyond the madrasa’s distinctive sliced domes, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views over Mardin old town and the plains of Mesopotamia.
A popular location for wedding photoshoots, Mardin Zinciriye Medresesi also made an appearance in the Turkish Netflix series The Gift!
⏰ Opening times: 08:30 -17:00 (Winter), 08.30-18.30 (Summer)
💰 Entrance fee: 40TL
Visit the Prettiest Post Office in Turkey
Posing on the famous stairs of the Old Mardin Post Office
Posting letters would be much more exciting if all post offices looked like the Old Mardin Post Office building.
Another example of exquisite Mardin architecture, it was designed by Armenian architect Sarkis Elyas Lole, one of the Ottoman Empire’s most renowned architects and coincidentally, also the chief architect of Mardin.
Originally built in 1890 as a residence for the Şatana family, it became a post office in 1950. While a small section still functions as a post office, the rest is open to visitors, with a lovely café on the second-floor terrace.
This building is gorgeous: a stunning double staircase at the entrance leads to a terrace with views over the Şehidiye Mosque and the plains in the distance.
All the doorways, windows and niches feature intricate patterned stonework and showcase Lole’s signature blend of Islamic, European Renaissance and Gothic architecture styles.
Now one of the most popular places to visit in Mardin, the post office became famous amongst domestic tourists after it was used as a filming location for the popular Turkish TV series Sıla.
Beautiful stone carving at the Old Mardin Post Office
More recently, it was featured in Netflix's The Gift (if you want inspiration for places to visit in Turkey, we’d highly recommend watching this series!)
Mardin Post Office is also a hotspot for wedding photography so don’t be surprised if you spot a few dapper grooms and blushing brides during your visit.
⏰ Opening times: 08:30-17:00
💰 Entrance fee: 20TL
🙋 Explore the Post Office and other sites on this excellent guided tour of Mardin
Admire the Ulu Cami - Mardin’s Grand Mosque
The Grand Mosque in Mardin Province Turkey
In the heart of Mardin’s Old City, just south of the bazaar, stands Ulu Cami, one of the most iconic Mardin attractions.
Built in 1176 during the Artuqid period, this is the oldest and most important mosque in Mardin and is believed to have either been converted from a Syriac church or constructed on its site.
Made of cut yellow limestone, the Ulu Cami was the first building in the region to feature a segmented dome, a hallmark of Artuqid architecture. Originally, it had two minarets, but one was reportedly destroyed by Timur during his failed attempt to conquer Mardin in the 15th century.
The remaining minaret, elaborately carved with intricate Kufic and Arabic script, dominates the city’s skyline. At its base, an epigraph names the sultans who commissioned the mosque and the date of its completion.
Kufic script at the base of the Ulu Cami’s minaret
The courtyard of the Ulu Cami mosque in Mardin
A man performing ritual ablutions before prayer at the Ulu Cami
We wandered through the courtyard before taking a peek inside. Although the mosque’s interior is simple, it’s worth a visit just to see a single hair from the beard of the Prophet Muhammad on display.
As we exited towards the bazaar, we noticed a black stone embedded in the wall that locals touched before or after prayers.
Intrigued, we moved closer, expecting religious significance - only to find a sign in Turkish clarifying: “The black stone in our mosque has no religious or cultural value or feature.” Curiouser and curiouser!
💰 Entrance fee: Free
🧕 Dress modestly when visiting the mosque. Men and women should cover their shoulders and legs (up to the ankles) and women should also wear a headscarf.
Meet Sabuncu Mehmet Dede – Mardin’s Legendary Soap Maker
The wonderful Sabuncu Mehmet Dede (on the right) with his friend at his shop in Mardin
Did you know that Mardin is home to a soapmaker famous for supplying Buckingham Palace with traditional Mardin soap?
Located on Mardin’s main street, Sabuncu Mehmet Dede’s shop is invitingly fragrant and delightfully chaotic.
Piles of soap in hues from creamy white and teal green to vibrant Spanish orange spill out of wicker baskets and fill the tiny store from floor to ceiling.
The shelves too are lined with soaps, some packaged up and ready to be shipped to customers around the world. Newspaper articles about the most renowned soap maker in Mardin city cling to whatever wall space remains.
The fourth generation of a long line of famous soapmakers of Mardin, Mehmet Dede had a chance encounter with Prince Charles (now King Charles) during his visit to Mardin in 2004.
Apparently, old Charlie was so taken with the natural handmade soaps in Mehmet’s shop that for the past 18 years, Mehmet has delivered his signature bıttım soap (made from terebinth/wild pistachio), olive oil and juniper tar soaps to the British Embassy in Ankara to be sent on to the Palace!
If you think that supplying soap to royalty means extravagant prices, think again. All the soaps are around 15 - 20TL each. We bought loads!
Mehmet Dede is also very friendly and lovely to talk to. We spent a good hour chatting and drinking çay with him and his friend who sells sugared almonds and sweets across the road.
See Kasımiye Medresesi – A Historic Centre of Learning in Mesopotamia
Kasimiye Madrasa in Eski Mardin City, Turkey
Kasimiye Medresesi is another stunning example of Mardin's architecture, and while it's a bit off the beaten path compared to the more famous Zinciriye Madrasa, it's definitely worth the walk.
Built in the late 14th century under Artuqid ruler Sultan Isa Bey, construction was delayed by attacks from Timur and his pesky Mongol forces, but it was eventually completed in the 15th century.
This madrasa was balling - at one point it was the wealthiest school in Mardin! It also offered a broad curriculum including chemistry, astronomy, mathematics and medicine and continued to educate students until World War I.
The ornate entrance carved with geometric motifs and floral patterns leads to a large courtyard with a fountain and rectangular pool, surrounded by 23 rooms across two floors.
The madrasa features three domes and we recommend climbing the nearby hill for breathtaking views over the domes and the plains beyond.
Don’t forget to look closely at the madrasa classroom doors - they’re just over one metre tall, forcing students to bow to their teacher as they enter! (I wonder if this could work in the UK?)
Today some classrooms feature exhibits from the Islamic Science and Art Museum showcasing inventions by Islamic scholars.
Kasımiye Madrasa is one of the popular things to see in Mardin and, like much of the city, it’s incredibly photogenic.
If you visit Mardin, don’t skip it!
⏰ Opening times: 08:30-17:30 (Winter), 08:30-19:00 (Summer)
💰 Entrance fee: 30TL
🙋 This top-rated guided tour of Mardin covers Kasımiye Madrasa and numerous other sites around Mardin
Sample Delicious Assyrian Wine
Fermenting cherries mixed with spices in a traditional Mardin kitchen
If you like a tipple, don’t miss the chance to taste real Mardin Assyrian wine.
Winemaking has been a cornerstone of Assyrian culture for thousands of years, with some historians suggesting that this region - once part of ancient Northern Mesopotamia - was where wine production first began.
Archaeologists recently found evidence of grape cultivation and even an industrial wine press dating back to the Assyrian Empire, more than 2700 years ago.
Fast forward to today and Assyrians in Mardin are striving to keep their winemaking traditions alive despite political, climate and economic pressures.
During our first visit to Mardin, we happened upon one of the city’s artisan winemakers while heading to the Forty Martyrs Church. The church was closed due to Covid restrictions, but as we made our way back along the road behind it, we noticed a chapel tucked away from the main path.
Ever curious, we wandered over and were warmly greeted by Gabriel and his mother who agreed to show us around the sparsely decorated, cave-like chapel.
The small Syriac Christian chapel inside Gabriel’s house
Gabriel shared that his family were Assyrian Christians who cared for the chapel on behalf of the community. Like many residents of Mardin, he was fluent in multiple languages and he read us a passage from the Bible in Syriac, just so we could hear how it sounded.
We learned that Gabriel’s mother had been making wine for 30 years. She invited us into her small kitchen, where she showed us a large bottle of cherries infused with cinnamon and other spices, which she ferments during the winter months.
The taste of this wine (actually almost a liqueur) was extraordinary - sweet and spicy, with hints of cinnamon and black cherries, after just one sip we knew we would have to buy some!
Though they didn’t have any wine bottled and ready, we weren’t picky—a plastic bottle of wine was perfect for us. Gabriel’s mother also gifted us a bag of the soaked fruits, which we savoured alongside our wine during Mardin’s chilly winter evenings. Absolutely delish!
We returned the following summer and bought more sweet wine from Gabriel’s family, who also make traditional wines using Mardin’s local grapes.
As Mardin’s popularity as a tourist destination continues to rise, so does the interest in Assyrian wine. Stroll down the main street of Mardin’s old city and amidst the jewellery and kuruyemiş shops, you’ll find numerous stores specialising in Mardin wine.
Most shops offer wines from Shiluh, Turkey's biggest commercial Assyrian winery. Their selection includes a variety of red and white wines that range from very dry to sweet.
Shiluh’s wines are excellent and certainly make great gifts, but we’d also recommend exploring the city's smaller, independent winemakers.
Strike up a conversation with local shopkeepers to find out who produces their own wine - like us, you might stumble upon an unforgettable, authentic experience.
Knock Back A Mırra Coffee
The friendly owner of Mırra Cafe
Mırra coffee is another beverage unique to southeastern Turkey. Thick, dark and extremely bitter, it’s certainly not a drink for the faint hearted!
Made with ordinary coffee beans that have been roasted twice to increase their bitterness, the coffee is repeatedly brought to the boil until it becomes syrupy and thick and a foam forms on the top. It’s then poured into a copper jug ready to be served.
We tried this coffee at a small cafe located in the backstreets of Mardin’s old town and behind the Forty Martyrs church.
The friendly owner explained that there was a ritual to follow when serving the coffee: he would serve us one at a time, beginning with whoever was oldest i.e. Vincent.
Vıncent gets to try it first!
He poured a small amount of coffee into Vincent’s cup, which he had to drink in two or three sips before handing it back. The owner then poured coffee into the same cup for me. Each time we finished a cup of coffee, we handed the cup back to the owner.
If you place the cup on the floor or fail to return it to the server, there’s a price to pay: you must fill the cup with gold and either marry the person who served the coffee or help them find a spouse!
Given that we weren’t rolling in gold, already married and uncertain about our match making skills, we thought it best to follow the local mırra coffee customs to a letter.
Take Historical Tour at the Mardin Museum (Mardin Müzesi)
If you want to know more about Mardin history, you should definitely stop by the Mardin Museum.
The museum building is stunning and a reason to visit in itself.
Built in 1895 for the Patriarch of Antioch (now Antakya) Ignatios Behnam Banni, it served as the Syriac Catholic Patriarchate until it was purchased by the Ministry of Culture who restored it and opened it as a museum in 2000. The Church of the Virgin Mary is still located in the eastern part of the building.
The Mardin Museum showcases a collection of archaeological finds from the Paleolithic era to the present day. Highlights include coins from the ancient city of Dara, Roman sculptures and mosaics, as well as ceramics, jewellery, musical instruments, and clothing from various periods.
Additionally, the museum houses an art gallery that hosts twenty different exhibitions each year.
Once you’ve had your fill of history, stop for a cup of çay or kahve in the museum’s cafe.
As history buffs, this is one of our favourite Mardin tourist attractions!
⏰ Opening times: 08:30-17:00. Closed on Mondays.
💰 Entrance fee: 7 Euros (Müzekart can be used here).
Visit the Church of the Forty Martyrs (Kırklar Kilisesi)
The bell tower at Forty Martyrs Church Mardin
The Syriac Orthodox Church of the Forty Martyrs, also known as Mor Behnam or Kırklar Kilisesi, is easily the most famous Mardin church.
Now the metropolitan church of Mardin, the Forty Martyrs Church was built in 569, in honour of Syriac saint Mor Behnam and his sister Saro. The lifeblood of Mardin’s small Syriac Christian community, it still provides weekly Sunday services in the Syriac language and is the most active church in Mardin.
It is part of a larger complex that once included a school, established in 1789 and operational until 1928, along with residential annexes for patriarchs that were built and expanded in 1850.
In 1170 the remains of forty Christian martyrs were brought to the church from Cappadocia and so it was renamed Forty Martyrs Church.
This building is truly beautiful - take your time to appreciate its 400-year-old wooden doors, the lovely bell tower, the ornate stonework adorned with Syriac carvings and the stunning intricately carved wooden altar.
You’ll also find various wall hangings and paintings, including a depiction of the story of the Forty Martyrs. Sadly no photography is permitted inside.
The church recently introduced an entrance fee of 40TL which goes towards the maintenance and repair of the building. The fee includes information about Syriac culture and the spiritual and historical importance of the church to the Christian community in Mardin.
⏰ Opening times: 09:00-12:00, 13:00-17:00
💰 Entrance fee: 40TL
Don’t Neglect Other Churches in the Area
The beautiful entrance to St Peter and St Paul Church in Mardin
Mardin sightseeing isn’t just about ticking off the main sites - this city is home to so many churches, it’s worth wandering around and just seeing where your feet take you.
Due to dwindling congregations, some of Mardin’s churches are closed but they typically have a caretaker who lives onsite or close by. Here are a few others that we visited:
Mar Petrus ve Pavlus Kilisesi
The owner of the Mırra Cafe suggested that we visit the Saint Peter and Saint Paul Church (Mar Petrus ve Pavlus Kilisesi), explaining that his friend, the caretaker, could let us in.
And sure enough he did! Built in 1914, the Saint Peter and Saint Paul Church was the last Syriac Orthodox church built in Mardin. The caretaker explained that he was the last Assyrian living in that quarter of Mardin and that everyone else had emigrated.
He also shared that due to the small number of Christians remaining in Mardin, members of different denominations now gather in the same church for services and celebrations.
Like other churches in Mardin, the architecture of this building is exquisite: the entrance, alcoves and chapels are all adorned with intricate lace stonework.
The altar at St Peter and St Paul Church in Mardin
Mar Hamız Chaldean Catholic Church
Located on the main road, the Mar Hamız Chaldean Church was built between 397-493, easily making it one of the oldest churches in the world.
Gaining access to the church can be a bit challenging - it remained closed during our first visit to Mardin. However, on our second trip, we noticed some people gathered in the entrance courtyard, so we seized the opportunity to take a look inside.
This is a large church - capable of accommodating 80 to 100 people. Unfortunately, only one Chaldean Christian family remains in Mardin and while the church continues to be maintained, it is no longer an active place of worship.
Inside the Mor Hamiz Chaldean Church in Mardin
The interior of the building is magnificent, featuring brightly painted altars, various paintings and tombs with carvings in Syriac, Arabic and Turkish. The dome, made entirely from bricks, is amazing.
Outside a huge egg in the courtyard represents the local belief in Şahmaran, a mythical creature who was half snake and half woman. More about her later!
Guzzle on Mardin Çöreği
A tray of Mardin Süryani Çöregi
The bakeries in Mardin do a roaring trade in these delightful, aromatic and moreish biscuits, locally known as Mardin Süryani Çöregi (Assyrian cookies/biscuits). Baked from dawn till dusk, their fragrance wafts down every street in Mardin.
These bite-sized biscuits are made with 41 different spices, including turmeric, saffron, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, and mahaleb (a spice made from cherries).
Instead of sugar, molasses, dates and liquorice root syrup are used, which helps keep the biscuits fresh and prevents them from going stale.
Assyrian cookies come in two varieties: one made with tahini, molasses, and sesame, offering a slightly sweeter flavour, and the other with almonds, which gives a lighter taste. Both types feature a date filling in the centre.
Unless you have massive amounts of self control, eating one çoreği isn’t an option. (Well, it wasn’t for us anyway.)
Self-confessed biscuit connoisseur Vincent couldn’t get enough of these beautifully spiced biscuit bites - we bought two boxes to take home and one box to eat while we were there.
If you’re looking to buy Süryani Çöregi just wander down Mardin’s main street or follow your nose.
Discover the Story of Şahmaran
An image of Şahmaran outside a house in Mardin’s old city
As you explore Mardin, you’ll often come across drawings, paintings and statues of Şahmaran, a mythical figure in Persian, Turkish, and Kurdish folklore.
Half-snake, half-woman, she’s seen by some as a goddess of abundance and strength, while others believe Şahmaran wards off evil spirits - which is why you’ll find her image outside many Mardin houses.
The legend begins with Camasb, a young dude who heads into the forest with his buddies to gather wood and discovers a well of honey. He volunteers to collect it but is betrayed when his friends - a bunch of robbing bastards - flee with the honey, leaving him trapped at the bottom of the well.
Camasb finds a hole in the wall and crawls through, discovering a beautiful garden where he meets Şahmaran. She is fiiiine and a great storyteller and predictably, they end up falling hard for each other.
As the years pass, Camasb grows restless and wants to leave. Şahmaran, tired of his moaning, agrees but only if he promises to never reveal her location.
Years later, the King falls ill and his aides declare that only Şahmaran’s flesh can cure him. They also reveal that anyone who has encountered her develops scales when in contact with water. Camasb is found covered in snake scales, and after being tortured, he reveals her secret.
As Şahmaran is about to be killed, she tells the King and his men, “Whoever eats my tail will gain wisdom and long life, but whoever eats my head will die.” The King and his men devour her tail, while Camasb, distraught, consumes part of her head, hoping to die.
But it’s a trick! The King and his soldiers collapse and die, while Camasb gains her wisdom and becomes a doctor.
Check Out the Old Bazaar
A bakery in Mardin’s bazaar quarter.
Running parallel to Mardin’s main street 1 Caddesi, is Mardin’s old bazaar.
A chaotic jumble of bakeries, green grocers, blacksmiths, kuruyemiş stores (shops that sells dried fruit and nuts), carpenters, butchers and cookware shops, a wander through the bazaar’s alleys is one of our favourite free things to do in Mardin.
You’ll probably spot donkeys clattering through the bazaar streets - they serve as vital transport in the old city where the narrow alleyways make car access impossible. Some are also used for garbage collection, though this practice is gradually being phased out.
Mardin’s bazaar is world’s away from the tourist markets of Istanbul so use this as an opportunity to pick up something unique. We’d recommend buying some Mardin badem şekeri, blue or white sugar-covered almonds that go perfectly with Turkish coffee.
Wander Around the Alleys of Mardin’s Old City
Exploring Mardin isn’t about ticking off sights - it’s also very much about just soaking up the atmosphere of the place.
One of the amazing things about this city is that you can spend a day wandering through the winding narrow streets and just seeing what you happen upon.
You might discover cool street art, stumble upon beautiful Mardin stone houses, be invited to have a chat and a çay with a local, meet donkeys collecting garbage or catch sight of a coppersmith hammering away at a teapot.
Some of the experiences we had in Mardin (including a few on this list) were precisely because we decided to explore without an agenda.
While we recommend using our post to plan what to see in Mardin, we’d also suggest setting aside an afternoon or a day to simply wander wherever your feet lead you.
Immerse yourself in Mardin's unusual sights, sounds, and scents and just enjoy getting lost in this spellbinding old city.
Listen to Live Turkish and Kurdish Music at Yara Bandı
My sister and I at Yara Bandı with our friend Elif who we met in Mardin
One of the most memorable things about visiting Mardin were all the interactions we got to have with local people.
Whilst perusing the titles in a cool second hand bookstore on the main street, we got chatting to Elif, a young woman who was studying for a degree in Istanbul but was originally from Mardin.
Having overheard us speaking English, she invited us to enjoy a Turkish coffee. It turned out that she and her boyfriend owned the bookstore and during her university break she had returned to help out.
We chatted for a while and then she invited us to join her for a drink that evening at Yara Bandı.
A rooftop cafe with stellar views of Mardin and the surrounding plains, Yara Bandı hosts regular live music events, author sessions and film screenings.
Tucked away on a corner in one of the backstreets of the old city, we would never have discovered this gem if it weren't for Elif.
With a bottle of wine and a few beers in hand, we enjoyed a fantastic live band performing Kurdish and Turkish songs. Though we didn’t know the words, we happily swayed along to the music all the same!
Just one of those random Mardin things to do!
Look up at Mardin Castle
Mardin Castle, Turkey at sunset
Towering over the old city, Mardin Castle dates back nearly 3,000 years and is believed to have been built by the ancient Babylonian King Shad Buhari, a devoted sun worshipper.
Legend has it that staying on the hill miraculously cured him of a terminal illness, so naturally, he thought, "Why not build a castle here?" As one does.
Over the centuries, the castle, now famously known as the Eagle’s Nest, has been used by various kingdoms and empires, from the Romans to the Ottomans. It also holds the rare distinction of never having been conquered. Impressive!
The castle is of such strategic importance that it’s still in use today…as a castle. It’s actually home to a NATO military base and a radar station.
Mardin castle is surrounded by wire fences and security cameras and is not open to tourists. You can walk up towards it to see views over Syria and Mardin Old City, but we wouldn’t recommend getting close to the fences. Afterall, nobody wants to get shot on holiday.
Since 2008, many efforts have been made to open the castle to tourism, but so far none have been successful.
Buy Some Bling
Mardin’s filigree jewellery is truly stunning
Mardin has many traditional handicrafts but one of the most ancient and beautiful has to be the art of making filigree jewellery, or telkari in Turkish.
Filigree jewellery originated in Mardin in 3000 BC and eventually spread to the rest of Mesopotamia, Greece, Rome and India.
Its intricate patterns were popular amongst various cultures and archeological discoveries have shown that even the ancient Greeks and Romans were rocking filigree jewellery.
Handmade filigree, created by intricately interweaving fine silver or gold wires into beautiful patterns and motifs, is an art form primarily practiced by Assyrians and Armenians in Mardin.
With the rise of technology, handmade filigree has become a dying art. Once practiced by hundreds of artisans, only a handful now remain dedicated to making their products in the traditional way.
I love finding unusual jewellery when I am travelling and in Mardin we explored several jewellery shops along the main street.
My sister and I both liked a delicate pair of filigree earrings shaped like pomegranates - perfectly fitting for this region. The catch? There was only one pair available.
The shop owner, however, assured us that it wasn’t a problem. To our surprise, he took another pair of earrings and, right before our eyes, skilfully transformed them into beautiful pomegranates. Now that’s what you call talent!
Discover the Ruins of Dara Ancient City
The necropolis at Dara
Just 30 km southeast of Mardin lie the spectacular Roman ruins of Dara Ancient City (Mardin Dara Antik Kenti in Turkish).
Founded in 505 by the Emperor Anastasius, Dara quickly grew to become the military and administrative heart of the Roman Empire in Mesopotamia.
Dara boasts a huge necropolis (some of the graves still have human remains), two cathedral-like water cisterns, a huge agora, mosaics and more.
Every time we have visited Dara it’s been empty, which is a surprise because entrance to the site is completely free.
You’ll need your own wheels or a taxi to take you to Dara. We organised a taxi through the Mırra Cafe.
💰 Entrance fee: Free
Explore Mor Hananyo Monastery
Mor Hananyo Monastery in Mardin
Formerly the seat of the Syriac Orthodox Church from 493 until the early 1920s, Mor Hananyo Monastery, known in Turkish as Deyrulzafaran Monastery, sits 8 km outside Mardin in the Tur Abidin hills, overlooking the vast Mesopotamian plains.
Its sun-drenched golden stone has earned it the nickname "The Saffron Monastery," inspired by the legend that yellow saffron crocus flowers were mixed into the mortar during its construction in the 5th century.
Today, Mor Hananyo remains one of the most significant and active religious sites for the Syriac Church. Daily services are held in Aramaic, the language of Jesus, and Syriac Christians from around the world come here to pray and seek blessings.
Visitors can explore the monastery only via a guided tour, which costs 100TL. Whilst we’d recommend taking a taxi or your own car to get here, you can also make the journey on foot - a walk of at least 1.5 hours from Eski Mardin.
We visited Mor Hananyo on our way back from Dara as it lies along the same route heading towards Mardin’s old city.
⏰ Opening times: 09:00-17:00 (tours are every hour)
💰 Entrance fee: 100TL
Take a Day Trip to Midyat
A church in Midyat
If you’ve fallen in love with Mardin’s stunning architecture and want more, consider taking a day trip to beautiful Midyat, an ancient town just an hour away.
Once home to a thriving Assyrian community, which was tragically decimated in the early 20th century, Midyat today is known as the “City of Languages and Religions”.
This splendid town is a mosaic of diverse cultures and religious groups including Arabs, Kurds, Assyrians, Turks, Muslims, Chaldeans (Catholic Assyrians), Syriac Orthodox Christians, Protestants, and even a small Yazidi community.
As you wander the town’s narrow, meandering streets, the sounds of Syriac, Kurdish, Arabic, and Turkish fill the air.
Like Mardin Midyat is an open air museum and is incredibly well preserved: there are over 100 traditional yellow limestone houses here plus nine churches, two monasteries, mosques and stone inns. Woah!
Midyat Old Town
How to Get to Midyat
A dolmuş (minibus) to Midyat departs every 15-30 minutes from Mardin Otogar (the main bus station) and takes just over an hour. The fare was 15 TL one way on our last trip, though prices may have risen since then. Buses run from 06:30 to 19:00, leaving only when full.
Mardin’s bus station is about 2.5 km from the old city. You can either enjoy a downhill walk or catch one of the local buses passing through the old city - the one you’ll need says "otogar" on the front.
We asked the driver of the Mardin-Midyat minibus to drop us off at Eski Midyat, or Midyat Old City.
The bus typically makes its first stop at Estel Otogar in the newer part of Midyat before continuing to the main roundabout, which is near where you’ll need to get off. Midyat’s old town begins just beyond the roundabout.
What to do in Midyat
Unlike Mardin, Midyat doesn’t have any major sights. Instead take pleasure in just wandering around the neighbourhood, admiring the ornately carved limestone mansions with their huge courtyards and staring up at the slender church bell towers, which are all slightly different.
You can pick up a map of Midyat from the tourist information centre which is next to the Asmaalti Kebap restaurant and the park. The centre is called the Midyat Belediyesi Zabita ve Turizm Bürosu in Turkish. Quite a mouthful!
In our experience most of the churches in Midyat were closed or not open to tourists.
We were lucky to find the courtyard of the magnificent Mor Sharbel church open - decorated with magnificent carvings, it’s a truly spectacular building.
Mor Sharbel Church in Midyat
The main monastery within Midyat's old city, Mor Hobil Mor Abraham, was closed during our visit and seems to be open only for worship and specific services. Fortunately, the remarkable Mor Gabriel Monastery, located 23 km outside of Midyat, welcomes visitors for guided tours (details below).
Many of Midyat’s historic mansions have been transformed into museums, guesthouses, and restaurants. Our favorite is the Midyat Devlet Konukevi (Midyat State Guesthouse), a location famously featured in several Turkish TV series.
For just 20TL, you can wander through the traditional guest rooms before making your way to the rooftop terrace, where you’ll be treated to lovely panoramic views of Midyat’s old town.
View of Midyat from Devlet Konuk Evi
How to Get Back to Mardin from Midyat
The Midyat Otogar is just outside the old town. Midyat-Mardin buses operate from 06.30 until 19.00, every 15 to 30 minutes and only leave once they are full.
Marvel at the Mor Gabriel Monastery
Mor Gabriel Monastery in Midyat
Another day, another Mardin monastery! (Can you blame us when all of them are so amazing?)
Located on a hill in the Tur Abidin plateau is the world’s second oldest Syriac Orthodox monastery, Mor Gabriel. Built in 396 by two ascetic monks, Simon and Samuel, the monastery gradually increased in prominence and by the 6th century housed over 1000 monks.
Mor Gabriel is still an active monastery and is home to a small group of nuns and monks, plus local workers. It’s a large complex and features two churches, old monastic quarters, a kitchen and tombs.
Today, the monastery's main mission is to preserve Syriac Orthodox Christianity and the Syriac language. It serves the local community by offering education in the Syriac language and ordaining monks.
Mor Gabriel is incredibly beautiful and well worth a visit. Entrance is by guided tour only and costs 100TL.
The monastery is located 23 km outside of Midyat, so you'll need either your own car or a taxi to reach it. We took the dolmuş to Midyat and then grabbed a taxi from there, which waited to take us back to the town.
⏰ Opening times: 09:00-11:30, 13:00, 17:00
💰 Entrance fee: 100TL
✈️ How to Get to Mardin
By Plane
This is the quickest and easiest way to get to Mardin. We recently flew from Istanbul to Mardin with Turkish Airlines. Flights are direct and take two hours.
Pegasus Airlines and Anadolu Jet also fly this route and if you book early you can often find cheap flights to Mardin Turkey.
From Mardin Airport we took a Havaşbus to Mardin Old City. It takes around 30 minutes and costs 145TL (£3.30/$4) per person.
By Bus
If you’re already in central or southeastern Turkey, regular buses and dolmuş run from Sanlıurfa, Diyarbakir, Gaziantep and Cappadocia to Mardin.
On our first trip, we travelled from Diyarbakir to Mardin with Özlem Cizre Nur. The journey took 1.5 hours and it cost 250TL (£5.50/$7).
Where to Stay in Mardin
For an authentic stay, we recommend booking one of the beautiful hotels in Mardin Old City - just be sure to reserve in advance, as they fill up quickly and tend to be pricier.
On a recent trip, we stayed at Dara Konagi Mardin, a cosy Mardin hotel near Şehidiye Medresesi.
Our simple yet comfortable stone room had an ensuite bathroom and much-needed air conditioning for the summer heat. The highlight? A generous, daily changing breakfast served on the terrace - it was so filling we often skipped lunch!
The epic breakfast at Dara Konagi in Mardin
Compared to other Mardin hotels, Dara Konagi is also a great budget-friendly option. Click here to check rates and availability.
Here are some other options for different budgets:
Mid-Range: The best hotel Mardin has to offer for a mid-range budget is Carra Konağı, which has gorgeous rooms and an exceptional breakfast. Click here to check rates and availability.
Luxury: Mardius Tarihi Konak is a spectacular 700 year old mansion with luxuriously furnished rooms, garden, restaurant and its own Turkish bath. It’s perfect for a romantic stay in Mardin. Click here to check rates and availability.
🤔 Is Mardin Safe to Visit?
Is Mardin safe to visit? Absolutely!
While its proximity to the Syrian border and its lesser-known status among Western tourists might raise some questions, we can confidently say the biggest "dangers" we faced were making too many local friends, overindulging in Mardin çöreği, and maxing out our photo storage with yet another stunning shot of domes, minarets, and endless plains.
Having said this, it's always wise to check your government’s travel advice before getting too carried away and booking your flights.
❓ FAQs About Mardin Türkiye
“Once Mardin enters your life, it follows you like destiny” - street art in Mardin’s bazaar
Do people speak English in Mardin?
In our experience English isn’t widely spoken in Mardin - you’ll find smatterings of it in some shops and restaurants but a translation app like Yandex or Google translate will definitely come in handy.
If you speak Arabic or Turkish you won’t have any issues communicating in Mardin!
What should I wear in Mardin?
As a general rule we dress more modestly when visiting southeastern and eastern Turkey, in comparison to when we are in Istanbul, Izmir or Cappadocia. You’ll also need to dress modestly to enter mosques and women will need to wear a headscarf.
What is Mardin weather like?
We’ve visited Mardin in three different seasons. Our first trip was in winter - while there were some cold and rainy days, we also enjoyed lots of beautiful, bright, mild ones.
The weather in Mardin in spring is gorgeous: warm, dry and sunny, it’s perfect for walking around in.
Summer, however, was a completely different story. Stiflingly hot with temperatures soaring to 40°C, we often sought refuge in cafes to escape the heat. We’re not sure we’d brave a summer visit again as the heat made exploring the city quite tiring.
Where should I eat in Mardin?
Mardin has tons of amazing places to eat and we’ve written about them in our Foodie’s Guide to the Best Mardin Restaurants.
How many days in Mardin?
We’d recommend spending at least three to four days in Mardin.
Where is Mardin in Turkey?
Mardin is in southeastern Turkey, close to the Syrian border.
What is Mardin famous for?
Amazing Artuqid architecture; diverse religions, languages and cultures; impressive ancient historical sites; delicious food; myths and folklore; and the friendliest people you can imagine.
And that’s a wrap!
We hope you enjoyed our Mardin blog post and that it’s given you some ideas of what to do in this magical Mesopotamian city.
With its unique architecture, fascinating history and welcoming people, Mardin offers something for every traveller - whether you're a history buff or an adventurer seeking off-the-beaten-path experiences in Turkey.
Before you go, check out these other articles about Istanbul and Turkey/Türkiye:
🍲 The Best Istanbul Food Tours
🏠 Best Areas to Stay in Istanbul: Coolest Neighbourhoods & Top Hotels
🌟 22 Best Hotels in Istanbul With a View
🗓 The Ultimate Turkey Itinerary 10 Days
🏖️ Where to Stay in Izmir: Best Izmir Districts, Top Hotels + Useful Tips
🇹🇷 The Best Places to Visit in Turkey
🍴 A Foodie’s Guide to the Best Mardin Restaurants
🍯 Where to Find the Best Baklava in Istanbul
🏔 Cappadocia in Winter: 7 Reasons to Visit & 16 Amazing Things to Do
🎄 Christmas in Istanbul: All You Need to Know for a Magical Stay
🌷 Visit Istanbul Tulip Festival (Istanbul Lale Festivali)
🎪 18 Best Festivals in Istanbul
🛫 How to Get from Istanbul Airport to the City Centre
✈️ How to Get From SAW Airport to Istanbul City Center
🔍 Exploring Balat Istanbul: An Insider's Guide to One of Istanbul's Most Unique Neighbourhoods
⛄ 9 Awesome Reasons to Spend Winter in Istanbul
✅ 12 Things You Must Do in Istanbul
🍔 Off the Eaten Track: The Best Street Food in Istanbul
🍟 The Best Vegan Fast Food in Istanbul
🥦 Where to Find the Best Vegan Turkish Breakfast in Istanbul
🥑 Vegan Istanbul: The Best Under-the-Radar Restaurants
🖼️ 14 Top Things To Do in Gaziantep
Find more travel guides about Turkey here
Looking for more travel inspiration? Click here to discover more of our favourite places around the world.
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